When I was
working on the engine and the carburetor inlet manifold was off the
engineI took the opportunity to trial
fit the EFI intake.
I tried both directions and it looks like the EFI inlet manifold can be put in place both ways without too much work involved.
It also doesn’t interfere with the bonnet so that’s good news. I tested
this with a piece of cardboard and adhesive tape and there is at least 5mm
space between plenum and bonnet when closed.
The other good news is that I can keep the frech air induct there's plenty of space left.
Even the strut bar can be left in place without any modifications; the only thing I need to do is to cut off a part from the gas cable lever.
I prefer this setup because this way there is no interference with the bonnet stay-up. I only need to fabricate a support for the flapper but this can't be too difficult.
other hand having the air intake on the left hand side makes life easier because
I wouldn’t have to change the plumbing of some flexible hoses. We will see how it will work out; this
will be done during winter period in the meantime I have to buy some other
parts like an EFI fuel tank and high
pressure pump and some other things.
When I drove the car there was a rattling
sound at the steering column; an inspection showed that the connecting joints at
the steering shaft were worn and that this was causing the vibration and the
rattling at the steering wheel. Replaced the shaft and connecting joints and
all vibration and rattling was gone; another problem solved.
I had a flexible
clutch pressure pipe made by a company; the pipe could resist 850 bar but just
to be sure I replaced it by another one with a metal surrounding (picture above) to prevent
damage caused by friction.
To make sure that the steering shaft wasn’t rubbing the exhaust pipe I asked a company to make me some spacers. The spacers are laser cut and are 1cm thick now there is about 5mm space between steering shaft and exhaust pipe and a few mm between exhaust and chassis rail; very tight fit but it doesn’t rub anywhere.
When everything was back in to place I
started the engine and straight away there was this noise again. By now I was definitely
sure that it could no longer be the release bearing making this noise.
I drove to the workshop and asked the guy
to have a look at the car. It didn’t make that noise anymore but after revving
the engine a few times al of a sudden it was there and we noticed straight away
that it was not coming from the gearbox but it came from the front of the
engine. We found out that it was the alternator belt making this noise; the
tension was not high enough. This means that as well as the old belt and the
new belt were making this noise. Ok this is my fault; I don’t like to put on to
much tension on a belt to prevent to damage the bearings.
In any case; making this faulty diagnose showed me that there was a problem with the clutch witch I wasn’t aware of; so in the end it was not such a bad thing to get the gearbox off and I also had the opportunity to change the rubber bushings.
I changed the slave cylinder and put in a new release bearing just to be sure. In the meanwhile I also changed the rubber gearchange bushings by new yellow ones and I put in fresh gearbox oil.
I also had a look at the brand new clutch master cylinder
and found out there was a small oil leak ???
I dismantled the master cylinder and gave it a good clean and you can see some small traces in the cylinder.
it back together and it doesn’t leak anymore so I guess there was some debris
from the old slave cylinder between rubber cap and cylinder wall and the small
traces are not big enough yet to make it
I changed the release bearing and the problems where gone…
but just when we came back from a 450Km trip the noise was there again.
The first time the noise was there after about 500km’s now it was back after another 450km’s so I guessed something was pressing against the release bearing all the time.
The only thing that I did not change was the slave cylinder
although that I didn’t had the impression there was something wrong with it I
took it off and took it apart; on the inside there was a large surface that was
corroded this prevented the piston to go back far enough when the clutch pedal was
released. This could be the reason for the clutch being slightly burned and the burned release bearing...
We went for a longer trip a few weeks later and I had some water leaking from the water pump at the end of the trip the leak was quite severe and there was also a strange metal screaming noise from time to time.
I bought a new water pump and belt and overhauled the alternator to make sure everything was fine at the front of the engine.